In the last 40 years, Zermatt has made the transition from a sleepy mountain village into a world-famous mountain resort, the No. 1 alpine destination for summer and winter visitors alike.
The winter season opens officially the middle of November when early-season skiers spend a week on the slopes of the largest summer skiing area in Europe. Until the middle of December, these skiers have the pistes to themselves. The few visitors spend their days walking the mountain paths that are as yet not covered with snow, and appreciating the atmosphere of this village as it must have been before winter tourism began after the second world war.
From the middle of December onwards, visitors from five continents arrive to add colour to the international atmosphere. Many winter visitors do not ski. They come here to benefit from the exhilarating pure mountain air, wander the narrow cobbled streets and hill paths, admire the breathtaking Matterhorn, and enjoy the cosmopolitan ambience on the Bahnhofstrasse with its many shops and restaurants. Perhaps they take Europe's highest cableway up to the Klein Matterhorn, to look over into Italy, or to hike up to one of the hamlets above the village where cozy mountain restaurants serve glühwein and local dishes accompanied by a carafe of Valais wine. Horse-drawn carriages on the narrow streets enhance the fairytale atmosphere.
After the hustle and bustle of Christmas and New Year has passed, some calm returns to the valley, and January has always been an excellent time for a leisurely winter break. The Scottish game of curling takes place then, and many visitors come to watch the daily competitions on the ice rink in the centre of the village.
The longer days of February and March bring thousands of skiers to the slopes. These are also the months for the sun worshippers and those who are fleeing the cold damp climes of northern Europe. The Valais is well known as the sunniest area of Switzerland. The mists that block out the sun until midday in the plains, are unknown here. Until a couple of weeks after Easter, Zermatt is in full swing.
Late April and May are for Spring skiing. Occasionally the snow conditions are better at this time than they were all winter, as the vagaries of Aprils weather deposits an unexpected load of fresh snow on a village that was already showing the first modest signs of spring. However, by the end of April, the lower slopes will have lost their blanket of snow and crocuses will shyly be poking their heads through the ground. Zermatt is breathing easily after another winter season in which she has played host to thousands of visitors from five continents.
June is the month for wild flowers. The alpine roses present a lush red carpet decorating the wooded hillsides above the village. The serious walkers are returning, taking advantage of the fact that this is still pre-season, prices are lower and not even the Bahnhofstrasse is crowded. One can easily imagine what sort of village the first climbers discovered when they came out here in the middle of the last century. The mountain goats being driven through the village to their pastures in the morning are a popular tourist attraction.
By July the summer is in full swing. In the early mornings, groups of visitors can be seen hurrying to the cable-car stations to make the most of the morning skiing. Hikers with their rucksacks set out for a day in the mountains. The more leisurely visitors enjoy a breakfast on a sunny restaurant terrace before planning their day. Daytrippers pour from the trains, and make their way up the main street eager for a first glimpse of the fabled Matterhorn whose history includes so many tragic climbing accidents. The month of August sees the serious climbers attempting the ascent of the Matterhorn and other 4000-meter peaks which surround Zermatt.
Many of Septembers visitors return year after year to Zermatt. The valley almost invariably has long sunny autumns which frequently extend into October and November. On the occasional rainy day in late Autumn it is fascinating to watch the snow gradually creeping further down the mountains, until one morning, a sprinkling of snow covers the meadows surrounding the village, and Zermatt knows that once again she will be having a white Christmas.
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